If you’ve ever tried to buy Japanese denim online, you know it can feel like stepping into a world with its own language. Selvedge, slub, sanforized, unsanforized — what does all this terminology mean, anyway? And more importantly, without being able to try jeans on in person, how do you know you’re getting the right pair?
The good news is, we’re here to help. At Blue Owl, we’ve been connecting customers to the best jeans in the world since 2009, and we’ve helped thousands navigate this exact journey.
Whether you’re new to raw denim or just upgrading your rotation, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know. We’ll show you where to start, what to look for in a great pair of jeans, and how how to make sure you get the perfect fit on your first online order.
So where exactly should you start if you’re new to the world of Japanese denim?
The first step is deciding what kind of jeans you’re looking for. Are you drawn to heavyweight denim, black selvedge, or a washed Japanese jean? Everyone has different goals with their first pair of high-quality jeans — and if you’re unsure, you can always filter by weight, color, and fit on our website.
But in our experience, if you’re looking for a good all-around denim, you can never go wrong with a nice mid-weight indigo jean. It’s been a classic for over 150 years, and will work well in any and every scenario you throw at it.
A medium-weight of 12-15oz is great because you get the famous durability of high-end denim, in a form that doesn’t run too hot. Meaning, you can wear these year-round in most climates. Plus, a medium-weight denim will crease more comfortably than heavier styles, and will develop beautiful, personalized fades over time, if that’s your thing.
For always in-stock starter pairs, we like the Naked & Famous Left Hand Twill Selvedge Denim – one of the best-selling jeans in our inventory for over a decade. These classically-colored jeans are made in Canada using Japanese denim with a specialized “left hand twill” weave, which actually breaks-in faster than a standard (right hand twill) denim would.
Plus, the jeans come with all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a high-end denim: custom rivets and buttons, a branded leather patch, chain-stitch detailing, etc. all at a killer price point of under $200.
But maybe you don’t care to break-in a pair of jeans? Maybe you’re more partial to something with a bit of flexibility? If that sounds like you, then take a look at our favorite stretch denim on the market – Hiroshi Kato’s 4-Way Stretch Selvedge Denim. It packs similar durability and fade potential as a 100% cotton raw denim would, but you’ll get immediate comfort and mobility thanks to the 4% blend of elastane. In a way, it’s the best of both worlds.
Finally, if you want to dive into something that’s made in Japan from start to finish, take a look at orSlow’s signature 13.5oz Selvedge Denim. Not only are these jeans at the perfect year-round weight of 13.5oz, but they are offered pre-rinsed to give the denim a softer feel and more natural drape from the start. They’ll still fade the same way any raw denim would (take a look at the 2-Year Wash version for an idea of what to expect), except you get a little more comfort from the beginning. Plus, orSlow is considered one of the best in the business when it comes to construction and tailoring – their 105 Standard fit is timeless.
Now that you’ve picked out your prospective pair, it’s time for arguably the most important step – it’s time to dial in the fit.
Sure, this stage can feel daunting at first. After all, each brand has their own method of sizing and fit. That’s exactly why we measure every pair of jeans that comes through our doors using a consistent, detailed method — so that you can be sure you’re getting exactly what you’re ordering.
Now it’s your turn to measure.
In order to ensure you get the right fit on your first order, grab a flexible measuring tape and find a pair of jeans that you already love the fit of. Then follow along with our Measuring Guide to get the following key measurements:
- Waist – Lay the jeans flat and measure straight across the top waistband. Multiply by two.
- Front Rise – Measure from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband.
- Thigh – Measure across the leg, 1” down from the crotch.
- Inseam – Measure from the crotch seam to the hem.
- Leg Opening – Measure across the bottom hem.
The more measurements you have, the more likely it’ll be that you’re happy with the fit.
In this process, you might find that your tag size 32 jeans actually measure about 34” in the waist (this is common, by the way). This variance is precisely why it’s best to go off actual measurements, rather than tag size.
Now that you have your measurements, you can easily find your size.
Once you’ve recorded your own measurements, head to the product page of the jeans you’re eyeing. Click the Sizing & Measurements tab to view the full size chart. These are in-house measurements taken using the exact same guide you just followed.
Next, you’ll want to locate the Waist column, and navigate to the row that has a number that is just slightly less than the waist measurement on your jeans. For example, if the waist measurement on your jeans was 34”, you’ll want to look for the row that is around 33” in the waist. We do this to account for stretch – most raw denim jeans will stretch about 1” in the waist with wear over time. 33” + 1” of stretch will get you to your desired 34” in waist.
Once you’ve found the waist number, look to the left to find its corresponding size. This is the size you should order. In some cases, this may be a size you’d expect. In others, it could be one or two sizes below/above what you’d expect. That’s totally normal, and again, why it’s best to order based on measurements, not tag size. Always trust the measurements.
Another great reason to order based off measurements, is because you can use our handy Denim Finder tool to narrow down our inventory to the jeans that will fit you best.
Just plug in your ideal numbers (we recommend at least waist and one other measurement), and our system will automatically surface the jeans that match your specs best. No need to spend time trying to figure out the difference between a Clean Straight fit and a Classic Straight fit, or a Tapered vs Relaxed Tapered fit – this tool removes the guesswork and shows only the best fitting jeans in our inventory.
Now, you’re at the homestretch. Add those jeans to your cart, fill out your shipping information, and our team will get the jeans packed up and shipped out, typically within one business day.
Just be aware, there’s no turning back from here. Once you break in your first pair of raw denim jeans, you’ll understand why it becomes an obsession for so many of us.
And if you ever have second thoughts about sizing or product choice, don’t sweat it — we’re always happy to help guide you to the right fit before you order. You can reach us at service@blueowl.mom, and also check out our FAQs for more details on shipping, returns, and product care.
And don’t forget, if your purchase was over $100, you may have earned BOW Points to use for a future discount. You can read more about our BOW Points Program here.
Of course, if you’re local or just visiting Seattle, pay us a visit at our retail store, where we can do all the work in finding a good pair of jeans for you.